Edwardian women often wore combination 内衣 instead of a separate chemise 和 drawers to reduce the bulk at the waist.
‘Combinations combine the slip bodice 和 drawers type, 和 are certainly more economical than two separate garments.’ (1911年教育针线游戏)
Edwardian combinations combined the chemise (or corset cover) 和 drawers in 上e, 和 were worn under the corset. Basically Edwardian women wore Edwardian combination suits to reduce the bulk at the waist: After all, small waists 和 close-fitting skirts were fashionable in the Edwardian era. Combination suits reduced the fabric layers at the waist by half!
‘Combination garments are extremely popular […] corset cover 和 drawers in 上e, a most comfortable 和 graceful garment […] is planned to do away with the separate short skirt, thus avoiding any bunchiness about the hips.’ (1907年《洛杉矶先驱报》)
In the Edwardian era, combination suits were usually called“combination corset cover 和 drawers”, “ladies’French corset cover 和 drawers in 上e”, as in 1905年这则广告, or simply“combination suit” or “combination garment”, as in 这个1910年的广告.
Usually the Edwardian combination suit was worn under the corset instead of a chemise (or slip) 和 drawers.
However, sometimes a chemise was worn under the corset, 和 the combination suit over the corset instead of a corset cover or princess petticoat, like in 这张1905年的照片. ‘The fashionably dressed woman wears but three garments, beside her corset– a little chemise […] a combination corset cover 和 drawer, 和 a petticoat.’ (萨克拉曼多联盟，1911年)
Chemise-Drawers Combination Vs. Envelope Chemise
In the Edwardian era, there was a similar garment which combined the chemise 和 drawers in 上e, called envelope chemise. Chemise-drawers combination suits had an open crotch, like mine, whereas envelope chemises had a buttoned flap instead:‘It is a garment cut 上 chemise lines, with an extension at the lower edge of the back, buttoning over 上 to the front, to form the leg of the drawers.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916) 这里‘s a 1911 pattern of an envelope chemise, 和 这里‘s a woman wearing an Edwardian envelope chemise.
Other Types Of 爱德华时代组合s
While I’m writing 这里 about Edwardian combination chemise 和 drawers, there existed other combination suits in the Edwardian era, such as the princess petticoat. The princess petticoat combined corset cover 和 petticoat, had princess seams instead of a waistband 和 was worn over the corset.
‘Combination corset cover 和 drawers, or corset cover 和 skirt, may be cut separately 和 joined at the waist line by plain band or ribbon beading, or cut 上 Princess lines, fitting the upper garment in to the figure.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)
Were Combination Suits Fashionable?
While in the Victorian era combination suits were still regarded as ugly utility garments, in the Edwardian era combinations became really popular:‘Instead of making chemises or corset covers 和 drawers, the combination of corset cover 和 drawers is in greater favor’. (1908年，旧金山电话)
The combination suit‘takes the place of corset cover 和 drawers; is very comfortable, not difficult to make, 和 easy to launder.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)
Combinations– Suitable For Travel
Combination garments were also advertised as suitable for travel.
‘If you are going to stay three weeks or a month, or even a few days for that matter, you must commence your paring down in dainty, frilly lingerie. All the ruffles take up needed space 和 if you have ever tried to have them laundried in a city that was full to overflowing, you know something of the heavy expense 和 the decided annoyance that is always such a part of it. […]
Comination suits of thin cotton […] may not be pretty, but they are inexpensive, occupy but little space 和 cost but then cents fo wash.’ (1904年，旧金山电话)
This beautiful Edwardian lace combination was actually my inspiration! However, my Edwardian combination is just a very plain everyday version!
But I had other inspirations, like this plain ca. 1905年在外交部组合, this lace combination with blue ribbon, 此孔眼蕾丝组合 和 this Edwardian combination with teneriffe lace insertions. Follow my pinterest board“1900s Lingerie” for more!
Like all my pattern, the Edwardian combination suit pattern is self-drafted. The top part of the Edwardian combination is just a rectangle. And I used this Edwardian drawers pattern as reference when I drafted the drawers part.
My Edwardian combination suit has circular drawers, also called French drawers in the Edwardian era. Circular drawers have very wide legs, not fitted into a band at the knee:‘In the days of full skirts the wide, circular 上es are very popular, while in the days of tight skirts they are narrowed down 和 even fastened into a band of some sort at the knees to make them fit closely.’ (School 缝制Based On 首页 Problems, 1916)
‘Combination garments are very popular […] A corset cover 和 drawers joined together under a strip of beading, 和 buttoning down the front, is […] comfortable 和 graceful. These drawers are cut circular, 和 extremely wide about the bottoms, so that they also serve as a short petticoat.’ (1907年《洛杉矶先驱报》)
‘Circular drawers have curved lower edges 和 are cut circular at the top so that all fulness is removed at the waist line. They are very comfortable to wear, because of lack of fulness at the top, yet permitting freedom of movement.’ (Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction, 1916)
Early Edwardian combinations had an open crotch seam, whereas late Edwardian combination had a closed crotch seam 和 a buttoned flap instead like 这里.
The drawers part of the Edwardian combination has an inverted pleat at the back like this antique Edwardian combination suit.
The chemise or corset cover part of the Edwardian combination is closed with buttons. A button closure at the center front was the typical closure of Edwardian combinations.
My Edwardian combination has 上ly a blue ribbon as shoulder strap like this Edwardian combination suit.
‘At the top it comes 上ly to the bust 和 there are dainty ribbons to tie over the shoulders. These, when the corset is adjusted over the chemise, are untied 和 tucked down, out of sight, so that there is 上ly 上e layer of thin fabric, in the corset cover, over the shoulders.’ (萨克拉曼多联盟，1911年)
The blue velvet ribbon is not a historically accurate Edwardian lingerie trimming. I didn’t know much about suitable Edwardian 内衣 trimming back then. A blue silk ribbon threaded through eyelet lace, handstitched eyelets or Valenciennes lace would have been much more suitable!