爱德华时代Walking Dresses

爱德华七世时代的睡衣:爱德华七世时代的妇女在寒冷多雨的冬季以及夏季远足度假时所穿的衣服。

爱德华时代Walking Dresses

‘所有医生都同意,最好的运动形式是步行。它使身体的每条肌肉都发挥作用,刺激器官和血液循环,并提供有趣的娱乐,因为它很有趣。它诱发健康because it does not overstrain any part of the body, and it brings beauty of form because it gets rid of superfluous tissue, and, at the same time, develops the muscles, thus filling out the hollows and thin places.’ (Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia, 1910-2a)

Edwardians were fond of walking. Even rain didn’t stop them: They believed a walk through rain was an excellent skin toner! But the clothing had to be light and warm so as not to catch cold. 爱德华时代walking dresses usually consisted of a short leather-lined wool skirt, a wool jacket or 毛衣 walking boots and a soft felt cap or hat.

 

 

 

爱德华时代Walking Dresses

‘衣服问题很大程度上取决于季节。 […]但是,即使游览要在冬季进行,也不应穿着厚大衣或拖曳的内衣。浅色羊毛内衣是最安全和最健康的,棉制服装可能非常危险。如果女性习惯用于紧身胸衣,那么可能只有一些柔软无骨的卫生产品或用丝带制成的产品。

爱德华时代Walking Dresses, 爱德华时代Hiking Women
爱德华七世时代的夏季步行服装:羊毛裙,上衣,毡帽& hiking boots

应在短而平纹的粗花呢裙下穿深色胸or或短内裤短裤。像男人一样的运动衫’s football “sweater,”pulling on over the head, is the neatest and most comfortable form of coat. It resists rain for a long time, protects the chest and back from sharp winds, can be dried quickly, and, if necessary, washed.

A small woollen cap, known as a“rinking cap,”which only needs two hairpins to keep it in place, is extremely becoming, and suitable either for summer or winter. The only alteration necessary for this outfit in summer would be that the jersey would be carried in the“kitbag”to be ready for cold or rainy days. Even on the hottest days, a flannel blouse, with a low collar, is preferable to a cotton one, but if the hat affords no protection for the neck from the midday sun it is very unwise to leave the back of the neck bare, and an upright flannel or soft linen collar should be worn.

Boots and stockings are most important factors in the pleasure and comfort of a walking tour–new boots are, of course, impossible, and those freshly soled are not to be recommended. A light, high boot with a broad welt and a flat heel is always comfortable and safe even in the worst weather. By far the best kind of stockings to wear are thick cashmere ones, for all people who have walked a great deal agree that thick stockings, even in summer, are quite the most comfortable. They enable the boots to fit more perfectly and so prevent chafing, which quickly makes walking impossible.’ (Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia, 1910-2a)

‘An invaluable possession for the holidays […] is the serge or tweed dress made with a short skirt; and all short skirts should be lined flatly having no separate foundation and fastening down the side of the front; thus only do they make for comfort and lightness of weight.’ (The Delineator, 1902)

‘The short skirted girl of a couple of seasons past was the freak; she was the Rainy Daisy, the pedestrian girl, the mountain girl, the climbing girl. She was everything but the pretty girl. For the short skirts, as they were made then, were not pretty. […] But now it is different: The swing-clear skirt no more resembles the short skirt of a few years ago […] The skirts of this season, those that are made on the new art lines, all swing clear.’ (San Francisco Call, June 1904)

‘为了穿在这条逃生的裙子下,穿上了一条比布兰妮短一点的衬裙衬裙。它不饱满,唯一的修饰是塔夫绸在底部周围形成了鲜明的对比。这件衬裙对于从未使用过的女人来说看起来很奇怪,但是它是如此舒适且非常适合其用途,即使行人裙悬挂得很好,使人忘记了它的外观。’ (San Francisco Call, 1903)

爱德华时代Walking Dresses
爱德华时代walking outfit, 1901

‘The best outing hats are the ones that can be wet with rain, dampened with sleet, coated with road dust and stained with vagrant spots without revealing their vicissitudes to the beholder.’An English outing hat, which Queen Alexandra wears for a walk in the Scottish hills or‘when she goes out to feed her dogs […] is a ready-to-wear hat of felt, slightly mixed in gray and black, rough to the touch and trimmed with a band of gray tweed and a quill of black.’ (San Francisco Call, June 1903)

‘There are few women who can wear a really truly“walking hat”and look their best in it. […] The real walking hat is the most trying thing a woman can put on her head. It is stiff, scantily trimmed, if trimmed at all, and has the unhappy knack of bringing out one’s bad points […]

Other hats can be twisted and turned and made to be becoming, but not this hat. Its brim […] unbendable […] it “stays put” […] So the woman is made for the hat and not the hat for the woman. She whose face can stand this severeness of outline is usually of the severe type or just the opposite with fly-away hair and tiny features […]

The walking hats in the rough straw are by far the most stylish. […] Some are made of cloth, with rows and rows of stitching, and trimmed with soft silk crepe and white wings. The straw hats are trimmed with the ribbon. Some of them that are like soldiers hats have a crushed band of the ribbon around the crown and a large double bow tacked securely to the crown a little to the left. […] A very natty hat is on the Alpine order with rolling brim and sets well over the face. […]

请记住,步行帽只能与棉质衬衫的腰部和裁缝袍一起穿着,并且与其他任何东西完全不合时宜’,例如丝绸礼服和蕾丝上衣。 (San Francisco Call, 1900)

 

 

 

爱德华时代Walking Dress For A Walk In The Rain

1900 Walking Costume - 爱德华时代Walking Dresses
Walking costume, 1900

‘月桂树属于设法在下雨天显得云杉和黄疸的女人。 […]在那些令人沮丧的日子里,生活看上去是无色和昏暗的,还有什么比在天空低矮的泥泞和泥泞的土地上,绕着泥泞和污垢,并在滴水的雨伞下摇曳的阳光照耀下的精致女仆更欢呼了? […]

雨天的女孩已经完全丢弃了橡胶外套和麦kintoheshes。 […]她现在穿着苏格兰格子的新型专利可逆裙子之一,并带有一点双排扣夹克[…]她的裙子伸到靴子的顶部,而且防水。足够重,可以防止一点水分渗透,但又足够轻,可以使她自由自在地行动。

新型可逆式短裙没有门襟,腰部非常大,很容易在头上滑倒。 […裙子的一侧是平整的,另一侧是格子的,而且做工整洁,以至于穿搭者只需选择和穿戴哪一面就可以了。 […]身材矮胖的猪皮软木靴,她可能会冒险而不穿眼镜’ (Los Angeles Herald, 1900).

‘对于不易受寒冷影响的人来说,在雨中行走对肤色是一种极佳的滋补品,但是为了获得最大的益处,必须做好准备。

例如,当采取这种流浪汉时,衣服必须保暖,裙子的长度一定不能拖住脚踝的湿气,因为没有什么比湿的衣服在脚上不断倾斜更能迅速降温了。

The ideal walking costume for wet weather consists of a thick and warm, but not heavy, short skirt. The length need not be so abbreviated as to be conspicuous in city streets, and a blouse of thin French flannel and a short jacket are best for the upper portion of the body. A jacket is far better for walking than a long coat, as the latter is apt to drag or pull when the wearer is exercising, and a short garment gives freedom of movement.

爱德华时代Walking Dresses, 爱德华时代Woman With Short Skirt
爱德华时代walking dress, 1909

颜色柔软的毡帽要与西装相匹配,应修剪一个或多个翅膀和一条柔软的丝绸带。除非洪水泛滥,否则水不会伤害到水,因此可以避免携带雨伞。

没有靴子比那些比规定要高的靴子有用。这些步行靴大约在膝盖的一半处,厚底,系带,可防止脚踝和小腿受潮。不幸的是,任何长度超过膝盖长度的裙子都会在底部变湿,因为它在行走过程中会被脚后跟摩擦。对于这种特殊服装,丝绸灯笼裤比衬裙更可取。

Clad in such fashion the risk of dampness or chill penetrating to the skin is almost impossible. One may be in a drenching rain and come forth unscathed, for should the jacket be wet through the shoulders the latter are still protected by the flannel blouse.

但是要获得利益,必须迅速进行这项工作。就在几分钟’在倾盆大雨中快步走会使血液充满活力,并使行人焕发出愉悦的光芒。但是,绝对重要的是,只要有人走出屋子,就必须保持快速运动,而且人在雨中行走的时间长短必须受个人力量和倾斜度的限制。

不习惯步行的人容易在十五分钟内感到疲倦,应注意不要离家太远以至于延误返回。劳累过度往往是感冒的一种手段,也不能认为乘汽车或手推车回家会很健康。持续不断的肌肉运动是唯一可以预防感冒的东西。

进入房屋时,必须立即脱下潮湿的衣服,如果怀疑脚底长袜和鞋子上的水分最少,则应更换。必须穿着不同的衬裙,当然还要穿另一件衣服。

我希望未曾尝试过这种雨天疗法的女孩能够接受公平的测试,因为我敢肯定,如果他们愿意采取预防措施以免感冒,他们会喜欢它并从中受益。’ (Health And Beauty Hints, 1910, p. 98f.)

‘If you are so unfortunate as to get your gown mud-stained be sure to wait until it is entirely dry and then brush off with a whiskbroom and sponge the marks until they disappear. If the cloth is spotted with rain, iron on the wrong side with a piece of old muslin between the cloth and the iron.’ (The Minneapolis Journal, 1906)

 

 

 

爱德华时代Winter Walking Suit

‘制作冬衣的材料应轻便又保暖,因为厚重的衣物会阻碍流通。所有的羊毛材料都是最轻的,并且耐磨的最好。

爱德华时代Walking Dresses
爱德华七世冬装:羊毛裙和外套,毡帽和羊毛手套

它们保持其颜色,并且看起来不像由羊毛和棉的混合物制成的那样破旧。

外套和裙子应采用束线和粗花呢,以防磨损。量身定做的优质哈里斯粗花呢经久耐用,并且对于乡村和耐磨性都非常好。 […]

The tweed or frieze cloth coat which is required for really cold weather should always be lined, either with silk, satin, or sateen. However thick the frieze or tweed may be, the wind has power to pierce through it, but the lining will prevent its reaching the wearer. Many of these coats are made so that they can be worn either open or closed over the chest, and with a turned-down or stand-up collar. […] Long fur coats and fur-lined cloaks should not be worn for walking; their weight makes them quite unsuitable […]

窄裙不适合女运动员,但如果穿了,则可以通过在裙的每一侧增加褶皱来获得额外的宽度和自由度,这可以使四肢充分发挥作用,同时又保持灵巧的外观。 […]

Ribbons as [hat] trimmings are very suitable for bad weather […] For cold weather the wearing of lined leather gloves is not advisable. A pair of woollen gloves worn over kid ones are much warmer and better in every way, and they can be easily removed if the hands get too hot. Those who suffer from cold hands should see that their gloves are long enough to cover the wrists, as it is most important to keep them warm. Gloves should never be tight; nothing makes the hands cold more quickly. […]

爱德华时代Felt Walking Hats
爱德华时代felt walking hats, 1904

对于大风天气,所有服装都应尽可能贴身。 […]

对于可维修的裙子,下摆内部用约四英寸深的皮革排列起来并不是一个坏计划。它有助于减轻裙子的重量并保持下来,在下雨天,如果下摆变得浑浊,则可以轻松擦干。

Boots are the best wear for winter; if shoes are worn, gaiters should be added for the sake of warmth and dryness. Raincoats of waterproofed cloth are preferred to mackintoshes by many; they are healthier in wear and have no smell, and will resist any ordinary rain.

For winter wear all-wool undergarments are decidedly the best. However thin, if they are of pure wool they are a great safeguard against chills. But some skins are too sensitive for woollen underwear; for these a mixture of silk and wool is more comfortable and almost as warm. Divided skirt knickers of a really warm, light material will be found a very comfortable substitute for the usual petticoat for everyday wear with short dresses […] Stockings should be of wool or silk.’ (Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia, 1910-2b)

 

 

 

爱德华时代Shooting Outfit

爱德华时代Shooting Outfit 1910
爱德华时代shooting outfit, 1910

‘A shooting skirt should be unlined, and made with a boxpleat at the back, to allow of room for fence climbing. It may be lined up with leather for a few inches, or faced with its own material–this latter plan is perhaps the best–and worn over stockingette knickerbockers.

A small felt or tweed hat or cap of the same invisible colour as the coat and skirt should be worn, leather gloves, and high blacking leather boots, with nails in them, reaching to the knee. As a substitute, stout shoes and high cloth gaiters may be worn.

The most useful coat is of such a length that the wearer can sit upon the back of it, and a breadth of mackintosh may with advantage be fastened across the lower part of the back of the coat, enabling the wearer to sit on damp grass with impunity.

衣领的布置应使其在雨天可以向上转动并紧紧地固定在喉咙周围。

口袋应衬有麦金托什,并用外部翻盖完成扣紧,以便墨盒,柯达胶片或午餐三明治可以保持清洁干燥。

在外套下面,可以穿真丝或法兰绒衬衫,带有柔软的领子和任何合适颜色的领带。’ (Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia, 1910-2a)

 

 

 

Colors& Materials Of 爱德华时代Walking Dresses

爱德华时代Walking Dresses, 爱德华时代Shooting Costume
爱德华时代shooting costume, 1900

‘Warm browns and various shades of red are, of course, particularly adapted to winter wear, but there are many whom these colours do not suit. They should choose instead warm shades of different colours–dark blue, inclining to purple rather than indigo; greys, with a tone of heliotrope in them; or mole colour, which inclines to pink or brown rather than green. Colour has a much greater effect on our feelings than we always realise, and in cold, cheerless weather to wear cold shades of colour is to affect everyone with a disagreeable sensation of chilliness. […]

Sometimes a cold-coloured costume can be made to look warm and suitable for winter by the judicious admixture of warm colours in the trimming; a waistcoat or blouse of some brilliant tint can be worn with it, or a touch of warm colour in the hat. Many charming combinations can be obtained in this way.’ (Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia, 1910-2b)

‘The best kit for shooting consists of a light tweed coat and skirt–waterproof, it possible, and chosen in a shade which will render its wearer as invisible as may be. A light brownish green, somewhat the colour of a lichen-covered stone, is excellent; or a heather mixture with a good deal of purple in it is good for grouse shooting or the moors; and a light russet brown, the colour of dead bracken, is both serviceable and becoming for pheasant shooting.’ (Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia, 1910-2a)

 

 

 

爱德华时代Women & Hiking Vacations

‘One reason why country people are much healthier and longer-lived than townspeople is that the walking which they of necessity must do benefits them more than the so-called“restful”driving, without which the townspeople imagine they could not live. So few townspeople know the joy and pleasure of walking; they usually say it makes them tired, and a motor ride gets them to their destination so much more quickly. This unfavourable view of the only really natural exercise is held generally because they do not know how to walk.

爱德华时代Hiking Women
爱德华时代hiking women, 1910

在我为女性撰写本文时,我想强调一个事实,即女性可以走路–如果她坚强并且穿明智的衣服–以及任何人。这么多居住在城镇中的妇女不能走路的原因是,她们要么穿紧身的衣服,要么穿高跟鞋简直荒唐,要么养成了在某些交通工具中到处走动的习惯。

Every woman can walk well if she chooses to train, and she can have the certain prospect of much improved health. There is no reason why, when walking holidays are suggested to women, they should say:“They’re only for men –women are not strong enough.”

Among both sexes walking holidays, until quite recently, had entirely gone out of favour–motoring or cycling was considered preferable. But now, when the true key of health is being strenuously searched for, walking, necessarily, must again become popular.

In general, the majority of people still think with fear of the idea of a walking tour. Many who have tried it have walked too far the first few days, thoroughly overtired themselves, and given it up as“an extremely injurious and uncomfortable kind of holiday.”Those who have not tried it raise objections about clothing, night accommodation, English climate, and so on. I hope to show that the first person’s idea is distinctly a false one, and that the second need have no fear about any such apparently worrying questions.

The first and most vital question before starting on a walking holiday is the choice of a companion or companions. Far better to go alone than to have a grumbler or one with utterly opposite tastes, spoiling every day as it comes. This matter needs very careful consideration, for on it largely depends the success of the walking tour. Two is the ideal number, and, of all twos, husband and wife the most perfect. Two girls or two men of similar tastes are the next best arrangement, and then, for those who like it, the party of half a dozen or more men and girls.’ (Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia, 1910-2a)

 

 

 

Outfit For A Hiking Vacation

爱德华时代Hiking Outfit 1905
爱德华时代hiking outfit, 1905

‘现在是衣服。很明显,您不应该穿着宽布,小孩子手套和漆皮穿着200英里的路程。穿上您的日常西装,看看所有的口袋都完好无损,纽扣缝紧了。

Be sure that your shoes are thick-soled, well oiled and broken in; and, if you are going to climb mountains, tell the cobbler to put soft iron nails into the heels instead of hard iron or steel, for the latter become smooth and slippery, making your footing unreliable on steep ledges. There is no need of suggesting that you may paddle about barefooted now and then. […] Bathe your feet every night, and if they are a little tender put soap on your stockings.

You will see from my inventory that I carry no stockings except those that I wear. It is more convenient to wear out the pair you start with, washing them now and then, than to carry extra ones. When they are no longer serviceable, throw them away and buy new ones. […]

在皮肤旁边穿法兰绒衬衫,并穿上纱布内衣。让衬衫成为那些带有滚动领子的方便安排中的一种,您可以在州际场合下低下脖子,在上面放上亚麻或纸领子,再加上围巾。由于领子和领带掩盖了衬衫的所有痕迹,没人知道您没有被安排在最好的亚麻布中。

How do I get my shirt washed? In this way: my nightgown is arranged with collar buttons, and I conceal the front with the collar and scarf, wearing it in place of my shirt while the laundress is scrubbing the dust out of that garment. Flannel shirts need washing but seldom where underclothing is worn, a good shaking often sufficing to get the dust out of them. The night-gown, collar, handkerchief, and underclothing should be washed and ironed for you within eight hours, if you make the laundress understand that you can wait no longer for them.’ (The Book Of Athletics And Out-Of-Door Sports, 1895)

 

 

 

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