我的维多利亚时代内衣:衬裙,抽屉和衬裙

我的维多利亚时代内衣:衬裙,衬裙和抽屉

那’我的中维多利亚时期内衣’我通常穿着我的衣服 1840s, 1850s and 1860s 服装,有时还要加上我的其他衬裙,例如 tucked or flounced petticoat.

victorian chemise

My Victorian chemise is a very simple pattern, knee-length, with a low square neck, tight sleeves and underarm gussets, and without any embroidery . Victorians thought underwear should be plain as it’s never seen –embroidered underwear was considered indecent according to Cunnington’s book ‘History of Underclothes’.

victorian jacquard stripe chemise

对于衬裙,我使用了一种坚固的米白色提花自条纹棉质旧面料。

‘Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor children. […] There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter, and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed, both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be added, to give a finish to the whole.’ (女工’s指南,1840年,第1页。 46/7) 这里’s a drawing of the chemise (Plate 6, Figure 2)

victorian open drawers
Open drawers

我内衣的其余部分是用未漂白的印花布制成的。

Calico‘should be soft, without specks, and the threads and selvages even.’ It should also be ‘free from dress, which is a preparation of lime’to improve the color, which destroys the fibers.‘The unbleached, or grey, is the best for shifts, boys’ shirts,&c., for the lower orders, being warmer and stronger than the white. (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 12)

1840年代印花布的常见宽度:

  • 未漂白印花布:13钉–2码4钉/ 75厘米– 2,05 m
  • 细白印花布,用于帽子,围裙等:12钉–1,5码/ 70厘米-1,40 m
  • 粗布印花布:14钉–3码/ 80厘米– 2,75 m

victorian split crotch drawers

维多利亚时代的女士’抽屉通常是无rot的。打开的抽屉被认为是卫生的。

‘These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are made in a great variety of ways. […] Drawers for ladies and children are usually made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin.’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 50)女士的抽屉‘由两条单独的腿缝成带子组成,绑带在钮扣的前面或后面制成。’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 53) 这里’女人的画’s drawers (Plate 7, Figure 11/12)

victorian open drawers

我的衬裙也是用未漂白的印花布制成的。

‘Petticoats are made of calico, twill, dimity, cambric, and jaconet muslin, sometimes for mourning, or for wearing under thin dresses of silk and satin: for the middling and lower classes, they are of calico, strong dimity, calamanco, stuff, and bombazine […] Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadth in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made: they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better.

Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top […] Skirts may be […] equally full all round […] or with all the fullness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist […] Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 104) The plaited skirt is‘set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band, of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band, and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band.’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 72)

victorian cotton petticoat

衬裙实际上由四块衬裙组成,这四个衬裙是分开的,然后分别用束带封口封闭。但是,四件单独的衬裙很麻烦,所以我将它们组合成一件衬裙。

四层维多利亚衬裙
Petticoat with four layers

维多利亚式衬裙,带V形

衬裙有一个V形轭,因为维多利亚时代的礼服通常带有一个 pointed bodice.

维多利亚式衬裙后勾眼扣
The corset

衬裙的背面有一个钩眼扣。有四只眼睛,腰部是可调节的:因此,我可以根据我打算穿的裙子,穿带或多或少带束腰的衬裙衬裙。

victorian braided bun hairstyle

为了拍摄照片,我将头发放在 Victorian braided bun.

civil war braided hairstyle

我把头发分成四个部分 here,将它们编织成小圆面包。

thunderstorm

拍照期间,一场雷雨…

rain raindrops pond

…and it began to rain.

 

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7 thoughts on “我的维多利亚时代内衣:衬裙,抽屉和衬裙

  1. I’m curious about how you combined 4 petticoats into one. Does each layer go all the way from the waistband to the hem? It appears that each layer is a different length. Is that just arranged that way for the photo? Or does each layer get a little longer to create more of a bell shape?

  2. 嗨女士。有趣的是,您的内裤看起来像是迪士尼的雪白连衣裙。
    I like that chemise a lot, but im getting crazy trying to figure out how to sew it. It seems tight arround the body over the chest, and higher than the back. So its hard to understand the sleeves, gussets, skirt, sewed unions zone, covered by your arms.
    我不知道正面和背面是否都是同尺寸的,而且由于怀抱将其保持在较高位置,所以这似乎是不合尺寸的。这听起来很合逻辑,但在那种情况下,我希望有更多宽松的选择。
    这本书(包括版)对我没有帮助,因为它对我来说就像是一本高级化学占星术中的旧希伯来书。 (阅读我的英语时你也这么认为。对不起)。
    So i would appreciate if you could do something about that. Maybe a close up photo of that part, or a drawing, or some explanation. (Im aware you said it is an“very simple pattern”, but something is tricking me. Maybe the horizontal large rectangle over the chest, wich i dont know if reachs the gussets or not, or goes under them).
    我肯定这可以帮助很多人,像我一样对这幅美丽的衬裙感兴趣。

    无论如何,感谢您的网站,祝您有个愉快的季节(沃尔普吉斯之夜即将到来)。
    也非常感谢您阅读这封疯狂的信。

    1. 谢谢!是的,正面和背面是对称的,衬裙几乎完全由矩形和正方形制成:像轭,袖子和腋下衬板一样。我的衬裙被切成这样 antique linen chemise 我前一段时间买的也有特写照片。 ðŸ™,

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