My Victorian chemise is a very simple pattern, knee-length, with a low square neck, tight sleeves and underarm gussets, and without any embroidery . Victorians thought underwear should be plain as it’s never seen –embroidered underwear was considered indecent according to Cunnington’s book ‘History of Underclothes’.
‘Shifts are generally made of fine Irish linen or calico, for the upper classes, and of stout linen, or strong but soft calico for poor children. […] There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter, and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed, both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be added, to give a finish to the whole.’ (女工’s指南，1840年，第1页。 46/7） 这里’s a drawing of the chemise (Plate 6, Figure 2)
Calico‘should be soft, without specks, and the threads and selvages even.’ It should also be ‘free from dress, which is a preparation of lime’to improve the color, which destroys the fibers.‘The unbleached, or grey, is the best for shifts, boysâ€™ shirts,&c., for the lower orders, being warmer and stronger than the white. (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 12)
- 未漂白印花布：13钉–2码4钉/ 75厘米– 2,05 m
- 细白印花布，用于帽子，围裙等：12钉–1,5码/ 70厘米-1,40 m
- 粗布印花布：14钉–3码/ 80厘米– 2,75 m
‘These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are made in a great variety of ways. [â€¦] Drawers for ladies and children are usually made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin.’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 50）女士的抽屉‘由两条单独的腿缝成带子组成，绑带在钮扣的前面或后面制成。’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 53） 这里’女人的画’s drawers (Plate 7, Figure 11/12)
‘Petticoats are made of calico, twill, dimity, cambric, and jaconet muslin, sometimes for mourning, or for wearing under thin dresses of silk and satin: for the middling and lower classes, they are of calico, strong dimity, calamanco, stuff, and bombazine [â€¦] Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadth in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made: they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better.
Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top [â€¦] Skirts may be [â€¦] equally full all round [â€¦] or with all the fullness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist [â€¦] Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner.’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 104) The plaited skirt is‘set firmly into a linen, calico, or jean band, of the proper width to encircle the waist, and of 1 nail deep when doubled and turned in. Strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band, and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band.’ (女工’s Guide, 1840, p. 72)
衬裙有一个V形轭，因为维多利亚时代的礼服通常带有一个 pointed bodice.
为了拍摄照片，我将头发放在 Victorian braided bun.
…and it began to rain.
- By a lady (1840), 女工â€™s Guide，伦敦，辛普金（Simpkin），马歇尔（Marshall）和Co.的Stationers'Hall Court，可在以下网站找到： //archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog, accessed 25/1/2016